Lost in Translation: Blanc de Chine shows in San Francisco
From Erika Gessin

SAN FRANCISCO—On the evening of May 24, 2006, The Asia Society joined with Chinese luxury clothing brand Blanc de Chine to host an invitation-only fashion show and cocktail reception at the M H de Young Memorial Museum in San Francisco. The event marked the opulent design house’s first-ever appearance in San Francisco at this stunning venue, which provided a dramatic setting reflecting the designer’s architecturally inspired collection.
The fashion show, called “Dimensions of Design: Time, Structure and The Senses,” showcased pieces from Blanc de Chine’s ready-to-wear and couture collection and featured historically authentic Chinese garments such as the most popular women’s Qipao (also known as the cheongsam), Chang po (men’s scholar robes) and the provocative DuDou (a traditional silk bra), all with a futuristic twist. Relaxed silhouettes juxtaposed by rigid lines, elaborate, handcrafted details and exquisite pleating were signatures of the collection that paraded down a geometric, square shaped runway.
Standouts included an updated version of the traditional Chinese Zhongshan suit in deep velvet and long, mandarin-collared scholar robes, which, according to Blanc de Chine’s general manager, Vivianne Lau, are selling surprising well in their newly opened boutique located on Fifth Avenue in New York City.
“The draping, tailoring and men’s wear were incredible, and the symbiotic relationship that resulted from the choice to present the collection at the de Young was simply genius,” said Jill Siefert, a San Francisco-based stylist and former Fashion Director for Salvatore Ferragamo. “Yet the Asian-inspired details seemed a bit too literal, and it appeared more like the designer was creating clothing for the Asian market using influences from American design.”
Indeed, many of the silhouettes and styles, such as the series of backless, string-tied, handkerchief tops displayed mid show, were outdated in comparison to what American and European designers are currently offering. While the luxurious quality and flawless craftsmanship were certainly noteworthy, it was hard to envision the majority of these designs being accepted by Western consumers. The intention behind the clothing was high in concept, yet somehow something seemed to have gotten lost in translation and resulted in a collection that felt more high costume than high fashion.
Sartorial quibbles aside, the affluent, well-dressed crowd was delighted and clearly enjoyed the event hosted by The Asia Society to promote awareness of Asian culture and U.S.-Asia relations. Nudging those relations a little further along were a fully stocked open bar, delicate hand-passed hor d’eouvres and lavish gift bags stocked with a beautiful silk scarf and elegant hardcover book of Blanc de Chine’s fashion photography - providing the ideal setting for a gathering of San Francisco fashionistas.